1
Few
days back, I was visiting one of these Super stores, which sell
almost everything from a toothpick to Refrigerators. On any day,
these Mega stores always have super deals for some item or another.
That day, the offer was for their ‘Own house brand’, blue Jeans
at a rock bottom price of US$ 16(About 750/- Indian Rupees). As I
knew that one of the largest weaving mills for blue Denim is located
in India, out of curiosity, I asked a friend of mine to check the
price of Denim cloth manufactured by this weaver and the price of
Blue Jeans, manufactured by him for Indian market. I was astounded to
learn that the prices in India, for this cloth and the garments, were
much higher than the super deal offered by this Mega store. Even
assuming, a large trade commission, it was obvious that the blue
Jeans were being offered at very low profit or may be even at a
marginal loss.
How
can these stores sell these items as such low prices? Was the first
question that came to my mind. To increase sales, was an obvious
answer. How would it increase sales? Why should anybody buy large
number of Jeans just because the prices are very low? The answer lies
in a buyer’s mind. People do buy unnecessary things just because
these are cheap and stock on them. A pair of Jeans, according to my
experience, can easily last 3/ 4 years. I might think of having a
couple of extra pairs in reserve. Would I buy any more at regular or
even discounted prices? The answer is surely NO. However, what would
happen if I could get some extra pairs dirt-cheap? No doubt, I would
be tempted to buy. This is the way, our mind works. These Mega-store
guys surely know it. If they can offer things dirt-cheap, people
would be tempted and their sales volumes would shoot up
astronomically.
To
sale anything cheap, one needs to buy it cheap. To find out, I did
some research on the net. The facts were astonishing and I found that
I was very wrong. To give you exact figures, a pair of jeans is
offered to a whole seller in a price range of US$ 4.80 to US$ 7.80
(225/- to 350/- Indian rupees).The same pair is retailed to the
consumer in a price range of US$ 16.00 to US$ 43.00 (750/- to 2020/-
Indian Rupees). This means that no retailer is selling anything at
loss or marginal profits. Even at the price of US$ 16.00, they made
handsome profits. As a consumer, I am happy. Retailer is happy with
his profits and increase in sales turnover.
I felt
it was too simple. There has to be a catch somewhere. I decided to
look at the cotton prices. I found out that one pair of jeans
requires about 0.75 Kg of raw cotton. Which meant, that at the lowest
purchase price of US$4.80, retailers purchased processed cotton (i.e.
Blue Jeans) at US$ 6.40 (300/- Indian Rupees) per Kilogram and
retailed the same for US$ 21.30(1000/- Indian Rupees) per Kilogram.
However, average international price of raw cotton, hovers around
just US$ 0.32(15/- Indian Rupees) per kilogram. Even after
processing, same cotton was sold to spinning mills, for US$ 1.32(65/-
Indian Rupees), per kilogram. Somebody was making huge profits here.
Why
were prices of cloth and garments much higher in India? The results
were even more surprising. India is third largest raw cotton producer
in the world and still imported about 170 thousand tons of raw
cotton. Domestic demand therefore remains much higher than production
and local procurement prices for raw cotton are controlled by the
mechanism of minimum procurement price by the Government. This
ensures that farmers and processors are not squeezed and yarn or
Garments are sold at fair price to the consumer. Even then, picture
is not rosy in India. Increasing number of cotton farmers are killing
themselves, as they cannot get out of debt.
I took
Indian prices for raw cotton, yarn and garments as sort of fair
reference prices, and then looked at international trade. I soon
realized that the whole cotton garment scenario was an environmental
black hole, gobbling up our resources, destroying our environment at
an unbelievably fast rate and creating unprecedented miseries for
cotton producers, processors, and garment factory workers in the
process. In short, the whole thing just stinks.
Let us
consider first, the human misery part. United States of America,
which is world’s largest producer of cotton, pays an annual subsidy
of 3 billion dollars to cotton farmers in US to sell their produce at
a loss. This keeps the international cotton prices suppressed at
current levels. These prices are hurting the producers in China and
Africa to the point of starvation. Even the mighty Chinese Government
is not of any help; as they require bulk of the imported American raw
cotton for re-export of garments. The cotton processors are almost
bankrupt because of low margins. The garments are produced in
sweatshops in China, Bangladesh, Turkey and some other South American
countries. The workers are paid very poorly here. There is high
degree of human exploitation in the garment factories. As a result of
all this, a very low priced garment, finally reaches the shores of
USA or first world. Now the big retailers make huge profits and the
branded shops make unimaginable gains. In effect, the subsidy paid by
US Government effectively goes to Mega retailers and brand shops.
Consumers like me, are cheated and made to feel elated at a super
deal. This cotton scenario is squeezing worldwide, farmers,
processors and sweatshop workers by pushing them to poverty and
misery.
The
environment damage however, is far more serious. Worldwide production
of cotton is around 26 million metric tons. Each kilogram of cotton
grown requires on an average 150 Gms. of chemical fertilizers. This
means, that we are dumping about 4 million metric tons of these
hazardous chemicals in our soil every year. Cotton crop requires
heavy irrigation. To produce 1 kilogram of raw cotton, we need to put
10 cubic meters of water in the soil. Which means that worldwide
requirement of water for cotton crops is 260 million cubic meters of
water. In effect, we are ruining our soil and diverting precious
water sources to produce cotton, which generates losses or marginal
profits for everyone except big retailers in western world.
To
consider the environmental damage done by cotton crops, let us just
have a look at one example. Uzbekistan in central Asia is the third
largest exporter of cotton worldwide. They export about 440,000 tons
of cotton every year. Uzbekistan has the world’s largest inland Sea
within her borders. Two major rivers, Amu Darya and Syr Darya carry
their water flow to this Sea. In the year 1950, Soviets decided to
divert the river water for cotton production. As a result, Aral Sea
started shrinking. In last 25 years, this sea has shrunk by half and
the day is not far off when instead of Aral Sea we may see Aral
desert. This has caused immense damage to eco system of the region.
Salinization of soil has rendered vast tracts of land utterly useless
for any agriculture use. The situation is further aggravated by heavy
use of chemical fertilizers. Cotton is the major exchange earner for
Uzbekistan and the Government is forced to divert more and more
resources for cotton production.
Cotton
farming is fast turning into a major disaster for mother earth. It is
a real winner takes all, situation. Unfortunately, only winner here
is the big retail business of the western world.
2
Last
year, my daughter brought a wooden chest of drawers, which she
thought could also be used as a changing station for the baby. The
cabinet was very elegant with matching handles and smooth cherry
coloured finish. She was rather pleased about the price, which was
quite low, considering the quality of workmanship. Few months later,
the elder sibling of the baby, who incidentally was just 3 years old
then, decided that the nice handles on the drawers could as well be
used as some sort of gymnastic gear. I am sure that there is nothing
unusual in this story. Unusual happened later, when the wooden
drawers, on which the kid was swinging and stretching, just broke
into two pieces. My daughter was very irritated with this and
contacted the supplier. He was rather philosophical and regretted the
event. He felt that since the drawers were made from MDF and were to
be used for storage and not for gymnastics, even when the performer
was a 3-year-old amateur, his warranty does not cover this misuse.
There was nothing else to do except throw that junk into garbage.
This
is how I found MDF (Medium density Fiberboard). When my daughter told
me about the incident, the investigative journalist inside me woke up
and I started looking for information about wood substitutes. During
my search, besides MDF, I also found Particleboards, chipboards and
block boards, a whole range of products, which look like wood. I
already knew about Plywood, which has been around, for quite a few
years now. Out of these various substitutes for wood, a Plywood sheet
is essentially made by gluing together, number of thin wooden slices,
under pressure and high temperature. This in fact improves, over some
characteristics of real wood, like elasticity. Plywood, in spite of
processing, remains real solid wood. On the other hand,
particleboards, chipboards and block boards all are essentially
sandwiches. Manufacturers fill all kinds of waste wood, mixed with
glue, between these two slices of wood. MDF is made from wood pulp.
Small wood chips are actually cooked into pulp and later mixed with
urea formaldehyde or even melamine resins. Both these chemicals are
highly toxic and could cause health problems for carpenters. The
material then is formed to look like wood.
All
these substitutes show extremely poor physical characteristics
compared to wood. Two important parameters here are Modulus of
Rupture or MOR and Modulus of Elasticity or MOE. The MOR and MOE of
MDF are just quarter of that of wood and MOR and MOE of particleboard
are just about one eighth of that of wood. It is no wonder that my
Grand daughter could easily break the chest of drawers. However, we
shall leave this aspect of these materials, aside. The main
advantages of MDF and other composites are the fabulous looks they
have, ease of working on these and very low cost, compared to wood or
even for that matter, plywood.
When I
learned about these wood composites, my initial reaction was very
positive. I thought that wide spread use of these materials, would
certainly bring down the consumption of wood, worldwide. This would
reduce logging and rate of denuding of the forests would surely go
down. Unfortunately what has happened is just the opposite.
If we
visit any of the big stores in any country, we would be amazed at the
wide range of wooden products available from small kitchen
accessories like towel holders to household furniture. A separate
class of products for building industry like wooden flooring, wooden
panels and doors are also available. All these products have super
finish. All products are so well manufactured that these are usually
available in a kit form. The consumers can assemble the furniture
with few tools and it would still look factory made. Even with all
these plus points, the prices are incredibly low.
One
outcome of this mini revolution in furniture industry has been the
utilization pattern. Remember the furniture of old days. It was
expensive and used to be a proud family possession. It was handed
over from generation to generation and used for long periods. The new
furniture comes with a new mantra, Assemble-Use-Throw. The durability
of this new furniture therefore, is quite low. This creates sustained
demand for the products. For the consumer, it is a good bargain. Get
stylish furniture at bargain prices. Use it and just throw it when
not required any more. So why am I complaining?
There
is a small problem however. The demand for this modern furniture is
growing at a very rapid rate worldwide. In the year 2006, total world
production of wooden furniture was US$ 270 Billion. Moreover, for the
last decade it has been growing at a rate of about 30%. This is a
very bad news for the forests on the earth. Moreover, in the earlier
days, the demand for wood for furniture- making was limited to a few
types of wood such as Teak, Pine, Walnut or Mahogany. With the advent
of new technologies like MDF, the demand now is for all types of
wood.
Let us
now travel to Zhangjiagang City in China. This city, located on the
southern bank of the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, is a part of
Jiangsu Province with Shanghai, Nanjing, Suzhou, Wuxi and other
cities in the vicinity. Last year, entire processing industry output
from this city was around US$ 12 Billion. A part of this output was
the wooden products, as this city hosts a very large number of wood
products industry. Total Chinese wood production in 2005 was
estimated to be worth US$ 51 billion with exports touching US$ 13
Billion. Wood production from Zhangjiagang City is therefore a major
part of total Chinese output and is a good representative of the
total picture.
Zhangjiagang
City also has a modern port nearby and is called Zhangjiagang Port.
As per statistics published by customs, during first half of year
2008, 1.642 million cubic meters of wooden logs valued at US$ 410
million, were imported into the country through this port only and
are obviously legal imports. According to one report however, total
Chinese imports of logs have grown to about 45 million cubic meters
by now. Much of the imports have come as unprocessed logs from
developing countries. China also imports huge quantities of sawn wood
and wood chips.
Most
logs imported into China, are effectively stolen, with no payment of
government royalties to exporting nations or environmental control
over harvest operations. At least 80% of Chinese timber imports from
Brazil, Cambodia, Cameroon, Congo-Brazzaville, Equatorial Guinea,
Gabon, Indonesia, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, and the Solomon Islands
are illegal, with somewhat lower values (50 to 60%) for Malaysia and
Russia.
When I
saw this scale of imports, I realized that I was looking at another
Environmental Black hole with its center in Zhangjiagang City. How
fast this black hole is going to gobble up forest cover of the earth?
was the question that came immediately to my mind. It is obvious
that at this rate of consumption, and rate of growth, our forests are
surely not going to last for very many years. Many a times, a picture
is worth thousand words. Those who are still not convinced, may have
a look at some images on these links.
http://www.treehugger.com/files/2006/12/the_hidden_cost_2.php
http://www.flickr.com/photos/eia/2493443586/
Unfortunately,
developed countries are playing a key role in the destruction of
forests. It is their demand for cheap wood products, which is fueling
China’s wood products industry. As long as this demand exists,
Chinese wood products industry would continue to grow.
A
report in National Geographic Magazine says that Island of Borneo has
already lost half of its forest cover and lowland forests, which
produce all the timber, would vanish by 2010. What prevents the same
thing happening in Brazil, Cambodia, Cameroon, Congo-Brazzaville,
Equatorial Guinea, Gabon, Indonesia, Myanmar, Papua New Guinea, and
the Solomon Islands?
Nothing!
would be my answer. However, if you ask me when? Well! A rather
difficult question to answer. I feel that it may happen sooner than
we think. It could also be within our lifetimes.
3
Can
you recollect the lunch & dinner menu, your mother made for you,
about thirty or forty years before? It must have been a very simple
fare but full of nutritional values. One thing that surely was
missing from the menu was any kind of sweet dish. Common people
enjoyed sweets only during festivals and special occasions like
birthdays. If a child had a sweet tooth, at the most he might get a
fruit or mango slice conserved in sugar syrup. However, all this was
before the ‘Amul’ milk revolution in India. As milk production
went up, milk processors started coming out with many new products.
Major varieties of these happened to be very enticing kind of sweets.
With better cold storage facilities, the availability went on
improving. Even your street corner grocer, started stocking on these.
Well! I am not complaining about the sweets any way. I have a sweet
tooth myself. Why I have given this example at length is to
illustrate how improved availability of a delicacy improves its
popularity and skyrockets its consumption.
Something
similar happened in the Nineties, for the connoisseurs of seafood. To
be specific, I mean for lovers of Prawns or Shrimps. This common
seafood in earlier days was not very meaty. A common shrimp has too
much of shell and very little meat. In Nineties, a new variety of
prawns, called ‘Black Tiger Prawns’, hit the market. These were
huge, as big as a lobster, and very meaty. The best part was that
they were very cheap and availability was getting even better and
better. This Tiger, hit the gastronomes of the western and developed
world like a storm. Prawn dishes started appearing in all
restaurants, bars and as ready to eat packaged food. Prawn
consumption kept growing at the rate of 9% every year and has now
reached US$ 50 to 60 Billion. Where do these wonder crustaceans come
from? Almost all the production comes from tropical waters, not only
of Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, but also
from Latin America – from Ecuador, Honduras, Guatemala, and Mexico.
However,
this ballooning production of Tiger Prawns does not come from Sea.
These are grown in ever-increasing numbers of prawn farms,
mushrooming along coasts of these countries. Total world production
of Tiger Prawns had crossed 500 000 tons by year 2002 itself. For
many poor countries, prawn export has already become one of the top
export items, bringing in much needed foreign exchange and employment
for the poor. It is an often-repeated scenario. Affluent nations get
something at very low cost and poor nations earn dollars plus
employment for the poor. Unfortunately the cost of all this is
excessively heavy for the environment as well as for humans involved
in the trade. It is clear that another environmental black hole has
formed here. Gobbling up resources on earth, destroying its
eco-system and social fiber of producing countries.
We
shall look at Bangladesh as a prominent example of this eco-
destructing trade. Bangladesh exported 33560 tons of Prawns in
2004-2005 worth about US$ 300 million. The export target was set at
US$ 1 billion for 2008. Fishing sector here is the second largest
employer with more than 13 million people employed, mostly in Prawn
farming, with exports to Europe, Japan and America. A small part of
the trade is that of the marine catch netted by a small trawler fleet
in Bay of Bengal. This catch is usually processed on the fishing
trawlers themselves and is very bio sustainable. Rest of the Prawn
produce, comes from Prawn farms, spread along coastal waters and also
inland to certain extent. These farms are destroying the paddy fields
of poor farmers and coastal mangroves on an unprecedented and massive
scale.
Mangroves
are the coastal equivalent of tropical forests on land, and are
called “salt water forests”. The Sundarbans, the world’s
largest coastal mangrove forest, stretches for almost 6,000 square
miles across India and Bangladesh. It is a natural barrier, against
tsunamis and frequent cyclones, which blow in from the Bay of Bengal.
With roots that tolerate salt water, the forest’s mangrove trees
grow 70 feet or more above islands of layered sand and gray clay,
deposited by rivers, that flow more than a thousand miles from the
Himalayas to the Bay of Bengal. Any ecologist would tell you that
mangroves are the basis on which entire ecosystem of coastal regions
is built. The Prawn farms are destroying the Mangroves not only in
Bangladesh but also along entire South East Asian coastal belt.
These
Prawn farms are slowly extending their reach inland, sometimes as
much as 80 Km from the sea. To cite one example, trees on 18000 acres
of land were chopped down to clear land near Chittgong to make way
for Prawn farms. The major damage to land and environment, from the
prawn aquaculture, comes from the pond’s waters. Fresh seawater
needs to be pumped regularly into the ponds to keep the prawns
healthy. At the same time, pond’s fouled waters have to be pumped
out. These waters contain toxic concentrations of prawn excrement and
the chemical additives used in the prawn feed and for water
treatments. This water is just dumped around and contaminates,
surrounding land, ground waters, and the coast itself. In addition,
salinization is poisoning the ground water, as well as the once
productive farmlands. This wastewater from Prawn farms is completely
ruining the coastal ecology, killing off the sea life and destroying
vital fisheries. The prawn ponds destroy themselves over time as
seawater gets contaminated and the ponds are closed. The rich and
fertile coastal lands of Bangladesh, where paddy fields existed
before, are being converted to poisoned wastelands.
Prawn
farming also depends upon getting good Prawn seeds. These seeds are
in reality eggs, hatched by wild female prawns. Natural habitat of
these wild prawns is amongst coral shelves on the seabed near the
coastline. While collecting these seeds on the vast scale required,
major damage is being caused to the corals. Sometimes, methods like
scrapping the seabed are even utilized. Coral beds are one of the key
areas for maintaining marine eco-systems. We can just imagine the
cost to the eco-system by this reckless destruction of the
environment.
What
is worst is that this entire operation is being run as a true mafia
style operation. Poor marginal paddy farmers are often beaten by
gangs of thugs and then evicted from their farmlands. They are paid
pittance and loose their only means of survival. Some of these
farmers become prawn growers in a small pond. They hardly make any
money from the business as all the inputs are controlled by big land
sharks and the price they get for their produce is very low. The
capital required to run this operation is also often loaned by same
big guy, who takes major share of the profit. The produce after going
through many middlemen, reaches processing plants. Here, to maintain
hygienic conditions demanded by buyers, the workers have to suffer
horrible work conditions such as continuous presence of extremely
foul smell and hot enclosed environment. Processing workers again are
mostly young girls recruited from nearby villages and are very poor.
They agree to work on a very low wage of about US$0.50 (24 Indian
Rupees).
The
tribal in the Mangroves, faces another kind of hazard. Since prawn
farms have destroyed the coastline, he is forced to move deeper into
forests for his subsistence. He faces new dangers such as Tiger
attacks, which are becoming serious.
Research
in this Prawn business made me sad. There is no easy solution. If
rich countries cut consumption, thousands of poor people employed in
the trade would be driven in further poverty. Many poor countries
would loose their source of income.
Meanwhile
this environmental black hole continues to destroy coastal and seabed
ecosystems and spreads misery and poverty in poor marginal farmers.
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